The headlights of jeeps wind up the hill in the dark, climbing through pine forest and the smell of wood smoke. By the time you reach Sarangkot the air is sharp and the eastern horizon is just starting to bleed orange.
The Show Starts Before the Sun
Machhapuchhre — the Fishtail — catches the first light, its pyramid summit glowing pink while the valley below is still in shadow. One by one Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I and the wall of the Annapurna range light up in slow sequence. By full sunrise the whole skyline is alpenglow gold.
Getting There
Most travellers go up by jeep, leaving Lakeside at around 4:30am. There’s a viewpoint with railings near the top, but the small chai shops just below it are quieter, warmer, and the view is the same.
